Australia Wine Region

 

However dry and remote Australia once seemed, it is no longer a forgotten continent. Ever since it stretched its limbs and went into action in the 1960’s and 70’s, there has been no sign of backtracking or even slowing down. Now that it’s moved beyond heavy, oxidized wines once skewered by Monty Python, this emerging powerhouse offers a full variety of fruity, accessible wines in all major styles -- from dry table wines to sparkling wines, fortified styles, and even vintage port. Worldwide, winemakers and oenophiles alike are paying serious attention as Australian wines, once appreciated mostly for their low prices, get better and more varied all the time.

Winemaking, like so much else, may well be a combination of 10% inspiration and 90% perspiration. In this case it doesn’t hurt that Australia, starting virtually from scratch, has managed to assemble the world’s most thoroughly modern arsenal of winemaking technology and equipment in exploitation of its numerous microclimates. Drip irrigation and machine cultivation can make vineyards here viable even in forbidding landscapes. And mechanized pruning, spraying and harvesting equipment developed over the last 30 years, plus massive new refrigeration and fermentation facilities, allow the larger Aussie winemakers to make wine at some of the world’s most reasonable prices.

In the matter of style, fruit and freshness are guiding principles in a landscape that respects varietal character above all. The concept of terroir, though now growing and gaining substantial attention, is traditionally undervalued or even dismissed, and the Australian winemaker’s ingenuity correspondingly emphasized. Blending varieties, even between regions, has historically been standard practice. This lack of reverence for tradition may offend old school winemakers, but Australians contend that there’s no arguing with success, of which they’ve had plenty. Ironically, while Aussie winemakers demonstrate plenty of chutzpah, it is the adaptability of their material -- the grapes and the vine itself -- that makes such experiments possible and successful.

Now that Australia has flexed its muscle, the task for the future is to go beyond the river of bargain wines that put it on the map and get the word out on its smaller regions. The focus should be on matching the increasingly familiar terroir to varietals and wine styles, so that consumers come to distinguish between, for example, Coonawarra and Margaret River Cabernet blends as they would between Pauillac and Margaux. The more ambitious winemakers project that it may not be long before the whole idea of generic “Australian wine” is a thing of the past.

 

History

 

In Australia’s long history of winemaking, fashion and technology have played a great part. Much is made of the legendary first cuttings brought in 1788 by Captain Philip aboard one of the ships of the First Fleet. Whether first planted in the Governor’s garden (under the site of the present Sydney Botanical Gardens), under present day Macquarie Street, or in a three acre vineyard at Parramatta, the vines evidently showed promise. Thousands more vitis vinifera vines brought in for commercial ventures throughout the early nineteenth century found their way to most of the same areas where grapevines still flourish, including New South Wales, Tasmania, Western Australia, Victoria and South Australia. Many thrived thanks to European immigrant populations who applied their viticultural experience in the newly adopted country.

In 1822 Gregory Blaxland shipped 136 liters (36 gallons) of his Australian wine to England and won the Silver Medal from the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce, and Australians shared in his pride. He followed with a second triumph five years later with the Gold Ceres Medal in London, and by 1870 millions of gallons of (mostly dry red) wine were being exported from all over Australia.

Phylloxera infestation was found in Geelong, Victoria in 1877, and consequent vineyard losses in Victoria (the original center of the wine trade) shifted the bulk of the industry to South Australia’s warmer climate. There, changing settlement patterns, new regulations and popular taste worked together to change the preferred style from dry table wines to heavy, fortified, and naturally high alcohol sweet wines. These were also exported in great quantities, principally to Great Britain, for the next 50 years.

By the mid-nineteenth century the pendulum had begun to swing back again, and advances in cold fermentation gave winemakers another chance to prove what they could do with Australian table wines. The introduction of low-priced wine-in-a-box (kept on tap in the home refrigerator) in the 1970’s spurred further local interest and growth, and was followed by an explosive growth in exports. The world market avidly snapped up rivers of these tasty everyday wines at bargain basement prices.

Australians have accepted wine as an everyday drink for years, and are the top wine consumers in the English-speaking world at 19.6 liters (5.2 gallons) each per year. This is twice the U.S. figure, though still only number eighteen worldwide and far behind number one France, with 60 liters (16 gallons) per capita.

Today the country is the eighth wine producer in the world (the United States is fourth), with over 273,000 acres under vine and over 1300 (some claim as many as 1700) wineries spread across the vast continent. Huge wine firms produce the majority of everyday wines (80 percent in 1998), but share credit for many of today’s award winners with a host of small boutique wineries which have sprung up since the 1960’s. Many of these are owned by urban professionals who are passionate hobbyists, the owners themselves often acting as winemakers.

The Australian wine industry continues to grow prodigiously: White grape tonnage increased fifty percent between 1995 and 2001, while red grape production increased nearly fourfold. Total wine production more than doubled in the same time, from 458 million liters (121 million gallons) to 977 million liters (258 million gallons), and exports are expected to increase within the foreseeable future.

 

Climate/Cultivation

 

Australia has the same grand variation in climate as the continental United States, which it resembles in size. Two basic climates support grape growing. The first is found in the south and west: Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania. This group has the winter-spring precipitation and dry, hot summers of Mediterranean climates, but with warmer evenings due to higher ocean temperatures (and hence fewer cool evening breezes), usually resulting in moderate acidity in the wines. To the north and northeast in New South Wales and Queensland, in contrast, tropical influences spread precipitation out over the course of the year. The climate here is nearly opposite of the ideal for grapes, with problematic rain and humidity in late summer and autumn, and a usually overly dry winter and spring.

There is no getting around the fact that most of Australia is a dry, hot country where modern vineyards could hardly exist without irrigation (the kangaroo, a common pest in Australian vineyards, has no such concern). The size of the local river or reservoir is of critical importance in vineyard placement. Water is required not as in Chile to pad out the crop but to make any kind of harvest possible, especially in the dry Riverland, Victoria and New South Wales. Thanks to drip irrigation, water goes further than before, but a map of vineyard areas still looks extremely spotty until one realizes that most areas work within discrete water budgets that are not negotiable. Varietal Information

The most famous Australian red variety, Shiraz, was the country’s first modern international success and has remained a distinctive claim to fame. Like Malbec in Argentina, this Old World grape (known as Syrah in France) finds a unique expression here, becoming deeply concentrated, with nuances of mint, black pepper and eucalyptus in some areas. Dense Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Grenache also have a devoted following around the world, and combinations of all of these (labeled Shiraz/Cabernet, for example, or Cabernet/Merlot) are popular.

Australian white wines tend to be full-bodied and ripe in style, with rounded flavors and moderate acidity. Chardonnay is the most important varietal, with the best sporting a “honeyed” finish with aromas of apple, pear and sometimes butterscotch. French oak barrel aging is common but not universal, and when used is not as monolithic as is found among, for example, California Chardonnays. Semillon is another favorite white variety, either standing alone or blended with Chardonnay in a unique Australian combination. In cooler areas, dry, aromatic Riesling is also on the rise both in quantity and reputation. Colombard and Verdelho both have traditional devotees. Among still-popular and delicious dessert wines the classic varietal is Muscat of Alexandria, here called Gordo Blanco. Sultana (Thompson Seedless) grapes are also raised in quantity, though not used for fine wines.

 

Classifications

 

After being up in the air for some time, Australian wine law finally shows signs of growing up. For years practical Aussie winemakers blended in ways that would have been unthinkable in more traditional countries. Regulations were forgiving, and with fanciful brand names unrelated to origin, consumers had no way of determining where a wine came from unless vintners chose to tell them. Nevertheless the wines were enthusiastically accepted at home and abroad, and potential for extended growth in Europe induced Australia to bring wine law into conformity with European Union standards in a process that has been underway since 1993.

The inelegantly named Geographical Indications (GI) system is now virtually complete, and registers (in descending size) wine zones, regions and sub-regions. Wine is considered to come from the area where the grapes are grown, not where the winery is located. In blended wines, GI's and varietals must be described and presented in descending order of their proportions in the blend. Newly developed wine areas may apply for GI status as they become established.

Under the updated Wine and Brandy Corporation Act (originally written in 1981, updated in 1993), wineries approved for the GI nomenclature (zone, region, or sub-region) guarantee 85% of their fruit is from the named region, a step in the right direction for an industry presenting increasingly polished and expensive wines. Wines for local consumption still need carry no claims as to varietal, vintage or GI, but exports to the EU and the USA require geographical information from a standard list, which will ultimately be consistent with the GI register of protected names. (www.awbc.com.au/winelaw/)

In recognition of the historic reality of blending between remote vineyards, Australia created the huge South Eastern GI. This zone effectively serves as an umbrella to bulk wine producers and allows blending as before (as long as they claim no geographical origin more specific than the South Eastern banner). For wine lovers, the smaller Australian GI regions and sub-regions are likely to be more recognizable for style and consistency.

The imposition of regulations has not been pleasant for everyone. The GI statute is intended “to prevent use of a geographical indication...for wines not originating in the place…,” and it now requires companies that have used place names as brands either to justify the use of these names (not an easy chore) or abandon them. Of course in the absence of regulations there was a tendency to inflate the influence of high profile areas with good reputations. The Coonawarra GI, for example, had been under dispute for years when a government ruling in 2001 established its legitimate size at only about one-third of the self-designated area before regulation.

 

Regions

NEW SOUTH WALES

 

NSW is the spiritual center and soul of Aussie wine production and the second largest wine “state.” Within New South Wales there are two areas of primary importance, plus assorted smaller areas.

Mudgee: Mudgee, which means “little mound” in Aborigine, is located at a moderate elevation and is best known for deep red, earthy Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, though it also produces many other varietals including Chardonnay, Riesling and Semillon. It has its own self-imposed AOC system.

Hunter Valley: Commercial Australian winemaking first thrived here in 1825. “The Hunter,” as it’s known locally, is 100 miles from Sydney, the best known of NSW’s wine districts and a popular tourist destination. The lower Hunter Valley is hot and damp and frankly better suited for cattle than grapes. Nonetheless it is known for Semillon, Shiraz and Chardonnay. The Upper Hunter Valley also produces Chardonnay, Semillon, and others; the dry whites are known for their richness and depth.

 

Riverina: Also known as the MIA (Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area), Riverina produces large quantities of bulk wine and lots of everything else as well (Chardonnay, Riesling, sparkling wine and Cabernet Sauvignon). The district has been producing since the early 1900’s.

Other New South Wales: Other NSW wine-producing areas include Cowra (several hours west of Sydney), Port Stephens, Camden and Canberra, with many boutique wineries dotted throughout.

 

NORTHERN TERRITORY & QUEENSLAND

 

Other states which grow and make small amounts of wine include the Northern Territory, particularly Alice Springs, and Queensland, with the districts of Granite Belt, Atherton Tablelands and Roma.

 

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

 

This is the locomotive of the wine industry. South Australia is the premier state for wine, producing about 45 percent of Australia’s total. Districts include cool and windy Adelaide Hills and the very hot Adelaide Plains, known for Shiraz and home of Penfolds Grange.

Barossa Valley: The oldest name in Australia, the Barossa Valley is home to many producers, with around one-quarter of total Australian production. The area features a wide range of soils and microclimates, and is known for Shiraz, Grenache and Riesling.

Clare Valley: Northwest of the Eden Valley lies this long, picturesque district full of eucalyptus. The Clare Valley is known for Shiraz, Semillon, Grenache, and oddly, Riesling.

Coonawarra: Coonawarra’s prime “Terra Rossa” (red earth belt) is nine miles long by one mile wide and considered the Australian Médoc, known for Cabernet Sauvignon distinguished by mulberry and mint flavors, and related grapes such as Shiraz, the best with overtones of cedar, cherry, and black pepper.

Other South Australia: Remaining South Australia wine areas of note are Eden Valley, Riverland, McLaren, Vale, Langhorn Creek and Padthaway.

 

 TASMANIA

 

This cool-climate island is home to more than the Tasmanian Devil. Revitalization of the area’s wine industry is underway in districts such as Hobart and Launceston. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the key varietals of the area, supplemented by Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sparkling wines are supplied by the well-known French name Roederer.

 

VICTORIA

 

Reborn in the 1960’s and 70’s, Victoria possesses a huge variety of growing areas and makes wines in many styles. The area boasts the largest number of wineries in Australia and produces over 25 percent of the total wine.

Great Western: High altitude Great Western north of the region’s capital, Melbourne, is situated on the slope of the Great Dividing Range and one of the older regions within Victoria. Its comparatively cool climate and light soils make it well-suited for sparkling wines and Shiraz.

Goulbourn Valley: The expanding winemaking area of Goulbourn Valley seventy miles north of Melbourne has easy access to water and is the best area in the state for full-flavored, long-lived red wines. Shiraz has been an area mainstay, as have Marsanne, full-flavored Chardonnay, Videlho and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yarra Valley: This is yet another dynamic region, with new vineyards appearing every year. At only an hour’s drive from Melbourne it is the second coolest region in the state, and quite rainy. The area is known for its rolling hills and vineyards featuring a variety of grapes including Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir.

Pyrenees: Just north of the coastal city of Geelong, this is a cool area known for Pinot Noir in the heart of historic Victorian-era goldfields. It was formerly known as Avoca after the local mountain of the same name. Vineyards are situated on the lower slopes and surroundings of the mountain. Harsh soils and continental climate (cold winters and warm, mostly dry summers) produce flavorful Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot. Chardonnay and sparkling wines (some in cooperation with Champagne houses Charles and Piper Heidsieck) continue to improve.

Other Victoria districts: Other Victoria districts and sub-regions include the Northeast (Milawa, Rutherglen), the Northwest, Swan Hill, the Mournington Peninsula, Bendigo and Moonambel.

 

 WESTERN AUSTRALIA

 

This has been another brave new world for the Australian wine industry. Despite a difficult climate that can make for rough going, the region has struggled back to its feet in the last few years to become one of the fastest-developing areas. Between 1997 and 2001, new plantings increased over 80 percent, and wine production grew accordingly.

Margaret River: This area’s cool maritime climate is more influenced by the ocean than any other Australian region, though it is at least spared from the risk of frost. The area concentrates on Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot for reds; rich, fruity Chardonnay, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc for its whites.

Swan Valley: Though situated in one of hotter growing districts, “Perth’s wine country” (20 minutes from the city) supports over 30 wineries, from family concerns to multi-national corporate affiliates. Vineyards on the banks of the Swan River or the low slopes of the Darling Hills use high tech procedures to grow and vinify a variety of grapes. Swan Valley specializes in Chardonnay, Shiraz, Chenin Blanc, Verdelho and fortified dessert wines in vintage port and liqueur styles.

Other Western Australia: Other Western Australian wine districts include Great Southern, Gingin, Waneroo and Mt. Barker.

Wine is a popular industry as well as a hobby in Australia, and vintners and consumers alike pay scrupulous attention to medals awarded in the state-sponsored regional wine shows. While judging standards can be faulted for a strong “New World” emphasis, these shows have resulted in a generation of extremely clean wines with few noticeable faults. Those in the state capitals, particularly, also contribute to world taste by elevating prize-winning winemakers almost to celebrity status. Some of the best known vintners become the celebrated “Flying Winemakers,” who moonlight as consultants on the other side of the globe while their own vines are dormant.

As a rapidly developing wine area, Australia has already demonstrated tremendous potential. The promise of even more developed regional variation makes Australia an attractive choice as the rest of world becomes better acquainted with its great quality and diversity.

 

USA Wine Region

 
The United States wine industry can trace its origins on two coasts.

When the Spanish missionaries came to the New World with the conquistadores they brought with them Christianity and grapevines. The first Spanish vines are thought to have been planted as early as the 17th century, around colonial settlements in what are now New Mexico and Texas. The earliest California grapevines were planted in what is now downtown Los Angeles. As the padres blazed a trail up the coast of California, they planted grapes at each of their missions in order to make sacramental wine. These so-called mission grapes were the beginning of the California wine industry.

On the East Coast, early American settlers attempted to grow the European species Vitus vinifera, only to see their vines die from disease and severe climate. Although they experimented with wines from the native varieties such as Vitus rupestris and Vitus labrusca, the berries made strong-tasting, foxy-flavored wine. American grape growers of the 19th century discovered that by grafting European varieties to American rootstock, they could produce not only hardy vines, but good-tasting wines. Prior to the start of the 20th century, American viticulture and wine making had been established in many Eastern states, including New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Ohio, Missouri, and eventually south to Virginia, the Carolinas, Georgia, Florida, and Arkansas.

Meanwhile, back on the sunny West Coast, the California wine industry was being fueled by a fire of European immigration. As people flocked to California in search of gold in the mid 19th century, many brought with them the viticulture and winemaking traditions of their native countries, principally Italy, but also Germany, Hungary and Switzerland. A wine industry was born, concentrated in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, and the Sierra Foothills.

In 1920, national Prohibition was established, and although home winemaking was allowed, the commercial wine industry was essentially destroyed. After repeal, the twin blows of Depression and World War II did further damage. With notable exceptions, the industry post World War II was basically comprised of bulk bottlers who mass-produced lines of generic wines with more attention to volume than quality.

Spurred by a number of social and economic changes, the wine industry dusted itself off in the late 1960's/early 1970's. An American wine Renaissance began, concentrated in California. New wineries, both large and small, were created, and new vineyards were planted matching grape varieties to place in the European tradition. Innovation and investment in technology were mantras; quality, on a par with (or surpassing) the French, the Holy Grail. A consumer culture eager to learn about and experiment with wine as part of the "good life" added fuel to the fire. Table wine consumption rose dramatically, awards were won, a parallel food revolution ignited, and the world began to take notice.

Varietal Information

Varietal or Appellation?

Varietal labeling as a concept helped define California winemaking and indeed that of most New World wines. Before the repeal of Prohibition, American wines were loosely labeled more or less by style, with generic categories such as "Burgundy" or "Chablis" meaning respectively hearty red and light white wine of indeterminate varietal origin. After Prohibition, Americans began to change their attitude about wines. Indiscriminate blending and generic labeling was replaced with honest appellations and most importantly, true varietal names. Today, appellation names are noted on the label, but are secondary in importance to the name of the varietal (as opposed to France, where the site where the grapes were grown is preeminent).

 

Some quick guidelines:

 

- American wines labeled with a grape variety must be at least 75% that variety.

- Wines with an AVA indicated must have 85% of grapes from that AVA in the blend.

- Wines with vintage years must have 95% of grapes from that year in the blend.

- Individual vineyards within an appellation can be named on the label, provided that 95% of the grapes for the wine is sourced from that vineyard.

 

Classifications

 

Today, although every U.S. state except Alaska, Wyoming and North Dakota make wine, and commercial wine production is an important industry in five: California (leader by far), New York, Texas, Washington State and Oregon. An appellation system for wines somewhat similar to the French AOC exists. But the U.S. system of American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) delimits geographical wine zone boundaries only. It does not dictate which varieties can be grown where, maximum yield per acre or other rules related to place, so in that sense is somewhat less rigid than the European models. There are currently 137 AVAs in the United States; 81 in the state of California alone

 

Regions

CALIFORNIA

 

The father of the California wine making was a flamboyant Hungarian named Agoston Haraszthy, who settled in Sonoma in 1856. He imported 200,000 vines of 1,400 varieties from Europe and proved that fine wine could be made from the vineyards of California.

California, while Mediterranean-like in general, has one of the most unique climate and geographic positions on the globe. Although located far south, on a similar latitude to Spain and North Africa, the vineyards of California are under the influence of ever-shifting topography and a multitude of microclimates. Grape and wine production is an integral part of the vast agricultural mega-industry that spans the length of the state for a thousand miles.

Wines labeled California appellation can be from any of the many wine growing regions of the state (over 90% of U.S. wine is from the state of California). Geographic and soil types are many and varied, but climate is considered the element most responsible for the distinctive California "fruit forward" style. Although California and sunny weather seem to go hand in hand, in truth some of California's best vineyards are downright chilly, cooled by the moderating influences of fog and wind from the Pacific Ocean. Cool mornings and evenings in these vineyards balance hot days under the California sun.

While the variety of terroirs might indicate a similarly large range of grapes, California's success has been found on relatively few: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. There are additional plantings of other varieties, such as Gewürztraminer and Riesling, Italian varieties such as Sangiovese and Barbera, and Rhône varieties such as Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Viognier.

Napa Valley: The Napa Valley is 60 miles north of San Francisco, 27 miles long and in some parts less than a mile wide. It is considered among California's finest wine appellations, particularly for Cabernet Sauvignon, prompting some to dub it "the Paulliac of California". Napa Valley is far more compact than its neighbor Sonoma, bordered to the south by the shoreline of the San Francisco Bay; to the north, east and west by the redwood-covered Mayacamas Mountains. It is said that the Napa Valley has more different types of soil than all of France, and its microclimates are so varied that it is possible to gain 20F degrees of temperature in the brief trip up valley from Carneros to Calistoga. Napa is blessed with singular geologic and climatic diversity, resulting in extraordinary vineyards. The gift of nature, partnered with state-of-the-art technology and winemaking skill, has consistently propelled Napa Valley wines to the head of the world wine class.

Given its relatively small size, Napa Valley has a surprising number of sub-appellations. Listed alongside are the varieties particularly noted, but by no means exclusively found, in these districts.

Atlas Peak (Sangiovese) Chiles Valley (Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) Howell Mountain (Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon) Carneros (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, sparkling wine) Mount Veeder (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) Oakville (Cabernet Sauvignon) Rutherford (Cabernet Sauvignon) Calistoga (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) Saint Helena (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) Spring Mountain District (Zinfandel) Stags Leap District (Cabernet Sauvignon) Wild Horse Valley (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay) Yountville (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc)

Also smaller plantings of Semillon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Syrah, Riesling.

Napa Valley recognized the importance of protecting its existing and potential vineyard sites early on. Strict agricultural preserve laws are in place to prevent runaway development and protect valuable vineyard land. The valley floor in this delimited agricultural preserve is literally covered with vines, with some plantings, though not as many as may be expected, in the benchlands. The mountain vineyards are located on Mt. Veeder, Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain, in Wild Horse Valley and on Diamond Mountain in Calistoga. Interest in developing further hillside sites is keen, but environmental concerns have sparked a debate. The stakes are high: a prime acre of developed vineyard in the Napa Valley is selling for $100,000.

Central Coast: The Central Coast is a vast region, stretching south from Monterey to the quintessential California beach town of Santa Barbara on the Pacific Ocean.

Monterey County is at the northern end of the Central Coast region. It is distinguished by the Salinas Valley. Made famous by the writings of native son John Steinbeck, the Salinas Valley is a thriving agricultural region, recognized for extensive vineyard plantings of the most popular varieties, both red and white. At the northern end, the valley is cooled by the maritime influences of the Pacific Ocean. It becomes downright hot by the time you reach the southern end in Paso Robles. Here, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and red Rhône varietals do well in hillside vineyards which cool down at night.

South-Central Coast. As the landscape curves southward again towards the Pacific Ocean, the vineyards become positively nippy by Paso Robles standards. Foggy mornings and nights are perfect for Burgundian-style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande and Santa Maria Valley in San Luis Obispo County. There are also plantings of Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Some believe the unspoiled Santa Ynez Valley, in northeast Santa Barbara County, is the next great California wine region. Santa Ynez experiences the typical am/pm cooling influences of the Pacific, but can be quite warm and Rhône valley-like during the day. The region holds great promise for Rhône varietals, as well as the classic Burgundian ones.

North Coast: The North Coast region encompasses some of the finest vineyards in the state, running south from Mendocino on the coast, through Lake County and Sonoma, and eastward to the Napa Valley.

The Carneros AVA is shared by both Sonoma and Napa. Carneros dips over rolling hills right down to the San Pablo Bay, (part of the San Francisco Bay). Maritime influences, including cool fog and chilly winds, are at the heart of its microclimate. The fog and breezes filter the intense California sunshine, slowing maturity and lengthening hang time. Soil types are extremely varied in the Carneros; in one Napa vineyard, Winery Lake, seven different types have been identified, including one, Haire, found nowhere else in the world. Carneros produces elegant Chardonnay and stylish Pinot Noir, with some Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot. Grapes from the Carneros are particularly suited to sparkling winemaking as well, as the cool temperature helps impart the higher acidity and bright fruit desired for sparkling wine.

Mendocino & Lake County, for some, Mendocino means the quaint, artsy village perched on a cliff above the Pacific. But Mendocino County is also wine country. Many of the region's vineyards are tucked among the redwoods, sheltered from the fog and wind of the Pacific by the protective mantle of the Coastal Range Mountains. Sunny enclaves, such as Redwood and Potter Valleys, produce fine Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. On the other hand, the more-exposed Anderson Valley is extremely cool, ideal for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in still and sparkling styles. Well inland from the Pacific Ocean, just about everything from Chardonnay to Zinfandel does well in very warm regions such as Clear Lake and Guenoc Valley in Lake County. Of note, there are vineyards of so-called "Old Vines" Zinfandel plantings of long ago, sprinkled across the region. There is renewed interest in making wine from these old, historic vines.

The San Francisco Bay area is the centered between the North Coast and Central Coast regions. Although generally urban for the most part, tucked into the valleys and up on the mountains are several historic wine-growing regions. The warm Livermore Valley which lies 40 miles east of San Francisco became a wine center in the late 19th century, as the miners returned from the Gold Fields to the San Francisco Bay Area. The first California varietally-labeled California Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon came from the region, which was also responsible for important viticultural research and advances in the area of clonal selection. Today, the Livermore Valley is still well-known for excellence in Chardonnay, as well as the Bordeaux varietals Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and Late-Harvest Riesling. Santa Clara County, although today perhaps better known in some circles for technology than wine, evolved as an agricultural and wine growing region about the same time as the Livermore Valley. Although high-tech industry has supplanted much of the agriculture of the valley, vineyards and boutique wineries specializing in the noble varieties can be found around Saratoga and Los Gatos.

Sonoma is a large and diverse region. Whereas its neighbor, Napa Valley, is small and compact, Sonoma sprawls for miles. Many of the best vineyards are located north of the city of Santa Rosa, and south of the town of Cloverdale. There you'll find a concentration of superb vineyards in the Alexander and Knights Valleys. Varietal diversity rules here, with excellent versions of any number of different wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah, Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

The Russian River runs through the Alexander Valley and swings west towards the sea at the charming town of Healdsburg. The cool climate near the river as you approach the Pacific Ocean produces brilliant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir--some say the best Pinot Noir in the New World. Within the Russian River Valley, the small sub-appellation Chalk Hill produces Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Northwest of the river is the Dry Creek Valley, home of fine Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel, as well as some Gewürztraminer and Riesling.

Farther south, and to the east, paralleling the Napa Valley on the other side of the Mayacamas Mountains is the Sonoma Valley. The town of Sonoma, with its historic town square and mission, was the birthplace of the Bear Flag Republic of California in 1848. Surrounding the town are numerous wineries and vineyards, including some of the oldest in California. Within the Sonoma Valley you'll find the sub-AVA Sonoma Mountain, known for hillside-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, and districts such as Valley of the Moon and Kenwood. The Sonoma Valley features a variety of microclimates ranging from cool near the Bay to warm farther north, and produces rich Chardonnay, intense Cabernet Sauvignon and luscious Merlot, among others.

Santa Cruz: The wine region of Santa Cruz County lies in the redwood-studded coastal mountains between the Santa Clara Valley and the Pacific Ocean. Whether you consider it part of the San Francisco Bay Area, or part of the north-central coast, Santa Cruz is home to some of the most rugged vineyard sites in the state, and famous for immense, powerful, mountain-grown Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and red Rhône varietals. Santa Cruz has always had a reputation for attracting free thinking sorts, and many of the winemakers practice a kind of iconoclastic, no-holds-barred type of winemaking. It's in perfect sync with a wine region that, geographically, in no way resembles anything near typical. East of Santa Cruz, in the dry hills of San Benito County, limetone soils produce fine Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Viognier.

Central Valley: The Central Valley, split into the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys, was once nothing more than a very long, hot, dry inland plain. The miracle of technology; namely, irrigation and the California aqueduct, brought precious water to the region and transformed it into the center of California agriculture. Among the crops grown in the Central Valley are wine grapes, and while the intense heat does not make for "fine" wine, large industrial wineries have been successful in producing millions of gallons of well-made, inexpensive wine for world-wide consumption. The slightly cooler areas, such as Lodi on the Sacramento River delta, can and do produce smaller quantities of better quality wine. The area around Madera is known for quality fortified wines in the style of Port.

Sierra Foothills: The Gold Rush of 1849 brought thousands of fortune seekers to the Sierra Foothills. Among them were immigrants, mostly of Italian descent, who realized that their fortune might be more easily made by supplying thirsty miners with wine. They planted the first vines in the rolling hills of the Gold Country including Amador County, the California Shenandoah Valley, Fiddletown, Calaveras County and El Dorado County. The Tuscany-like Sierra Foothills are Zinfandel country, and home to rich, full-bodied Cal-Itals such as Sangiovese and Barbera. Rhône varietals such as Syrah and Viognier have also caught the imagination of the area winemakers. Summers are hot in the foothills, but many vineyards are sited at cooler elevations well above 1000 feet, in thin, volcanic soils.

South Coast: Downtown Los Angeles may have been the cradle of California winemaking, but these days you'll find the wine country farther south. In Temecula and the San Pasqual Valley of San Diego County, award-winning Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc are produced.

 

MISSOURI

 

To the casual observer Missouri doesn't seem like an obvious site for making wine, but it does have a successful wine producing history dating back as early as 1837. Wine growers around the town of Hermann in the German-influenced "Missouri Rhineland" produced about 3 million gallons per annum by 1904, but as in other areas around the country, Prohibition, starting in 1920, destroyed most wine enterprises, with vineyards uprooted and equipment sold off.

In the last forty years, over thirty producers in the central and southern parts of the state, including the Ozark Mountains and Highlands, have revived Missouri winemaking efforts. The state can have searing summers and frigid winters, so most vineyards are located near the Missouri, Gasconade and Mississippi Rivers, where the water's presence protects vines from early spring frosts and moderates summer heat by as much as 25 degrees. Recognized American Viticultural Areas include Augusta (in 1980, the first recognized American AVA), Hermann, Ozark Mountains and Ozark Highlands.

 

NEW JERSEY

 

The Garden State has long been known for tasty peaches and berries, but increasingly New Jersey also has aspirations as a wine growing region. Already an enthusiastic table wine customer with the country's fifth highest per capita consumption, New Jersey now has a growing number of vintners striving to create modern wines that will appeal to enthusiasts beyond local markets. The state's seventeen wineries are distributed among eight counties. Moderate-size vineyards, typically of 15-50 acres, bottle approximately 84,000 cases per year, adding an estimated $10 million to the state's economy.

Native grapes have been cultivated in New Jersey for decades but are often unacceptable to modern palates. The chief challenge to advanced viticulture is summer humidity. With spraying not always successful against fungi and bacteria, vintners' traditional remedy has been to plant French-American hybrid vines, which are hardier than the Europeans while still offering some sophisticated flavors. Several of these, including Vidal, Chambourcin and Seyval Blanc, have become mainstays of the New Jersey industry. The latest generation of winemakers are also taking on the challenge of managing French, German and Italian varietals with modern techniques within their terroir. When this effort succeeds, the larger choice of materials affords greater potential for good winemaking.

New Jersey's southern viticultural region dates back to the 1800's, when the native grape juice industry grew up around Vineland, Atlantic County (the original Welch's Concord juice and jelly concern started nearby in Landisville). The topography includes flat or low hills and sandy soil, and a maritime climate moderated by ocean and Delaware Bay breezes. Northern viticultural regions have been developed within the last twenty years. The terrain here is hilly, with limestone or shale soils on hillside vineyards, and includes New Jersey's first Approved Viticultural Area (AVA) completely within the state, designated in 1988 in Warren County. The wine industry continues to stretch boundaries here, with steadily growing vineyards and technology.

With its native varietals, hybrids, and classic Europeans, New Jersey cultivates over forty different grapes -- and wines of every imaginable style, from sweet aperitifs to dry dinner wines, dessert and port styles, sparkling wines, and cordials. The most common New Jersey wines are simple, fruity everyday drinking wines at very moderate prices. Locals still seem to need coaxing when it comes to dry wines, and many offerings are sweetish and forgettable (though correspondingly priced). However, sophistication is increasing. Today's vintners have studied stainless steel and barrel fermentation, carbonic maceration and especially barrel aging in American and French oak, and are learning to apply improved technology to the local grapes.

While interest in fruit wines (cherry, plum, peach, raspberry, blackberry, and cranberry) remains strong, the ambitious New Jersey wine industry has added serious dinner wines to the portfolio, including Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot, Viognier and Cabernet Sauvignon. Germanic and Italian influences are seen in Gewurztraminer, Riesling, and Pinot Grigio plantings.

 

NEW YORK

 

Perhaps New York doesn't get the recognition it deserves, but it is indeed the second-largest wine-producing state in the U.S. New York has a long and distinguished winemaking history. The oldest continuously operating winery in the United States is located here, as is the second largest wine company. The most important region is the Finger Lakes, an AVA which produces 85% of New York wines. The other two notable regions are the Hudson Valley and Long Island, which boasts 24 wineries.

If you're interested in American native and hybrid grape varieties, most of New York's early wines were made from the local Vitis labrusca and the native American varieties such as Concord, Catawba and Niagara, and then French-American hybrids such as Seyval Blanc and Baco Noir. Today, New York varieties include Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir.

Long Island: Long Island's success is a relatively recent development. The first vinifera grapes were planted on Long Island's North Fork (about a two-hour drive from New York City) in 1973. Long Island, like Washington State, is developing a reputation for fine Merlot. Also grown are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and a small amount of Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir.

OHIO

 

Ohio winemaking can be traced back to the early 1800’s, when an attorney from the Cincinnati area planted native Catawba grapes and the resulting light, semisweet wines became popular. Wine production grew to over 300,000 gallons per year, making Ohio the country’s largest wine producer by 1860, but after that grape growing died out due to Civil War and crop disease. In the late 1800’s and early 1900’s a new vineyard area emerged in the Lake Erie Islands and the southern shore of Lake Erie, where frigid winter temperatures and spring frosts are mitigated by the presence of the lake. Dozens of small concerns there produced native wines, only to be struck down by Prohibition and population changes that appropriated former vineyard land for industrial and housing tracts.

In the early 1960’s, Ohio State University’s Agricultural Research and Development Center in Wooster encouraged the planting of several French-American hybrids in southern Ohio. This successful effort was soon followed by further plantings in the Lake Erie Grape Belt. Since 1965 more than 60 new wineries have been established across the state, and today Ohio has 5 viticultural appellations and several sub-appellations. The AVA’s are Lake Erie East, Lake Erie West, Central Ohio, Ohio Heartland, and Ohio River Valley.

In response to a shortage of local grapes, the state of Ohio initiated a successful campaign in the 1990’s to support vineyard expansion. Sweet native and fruit wines are still available, but French-American hybrids such as Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc and Chambourcin are more popular today, and many in the industry are pinning high hopes on French and German vinifera, including Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and even Cabernet Sauvignon. Ohio table wines, particularly whites, have begun to show well in major US wine competitions, and the industry continues to grow enthusiastically.

 

OREGON

 

In the mid-1960s when the first vineyards of Pinot Noir were planted in the Willamette Valley, there were virtually no wineries producing vinifera wines in the Pacific Northwest states of Oregon, Washington and Idaho. Although Oregon made wine in the early 19th century, Prohibition effectively wiped out its wine industry. The Oregon wine pioneers of the Sixties were an iconoclastic crew, fascinated by the challenges of the climate, and the prospect of taming a new wine frontier. Temperamental Pinot Noir was the daring choice. The grape, its growers and winemakers work hard for their money, but it shows to their advantage in the wines. The distinguished white varietal of Oregon is elegant, spicy, crisp Pinot Gris.

Oregon's climate is defined by two conditions: cool growing season and plenty of rain. Uneven ripening is the rule; picking can begin as early as September or as late as November. The Pacific Ocean keeps frost at bay; but can bring lots of rain, fog and wind into the wine-growing regions which lie west of the Cascade Mountains. As a result, growers have to be discerning where they plant. You won't see the wide vineyards tracts that are the rule in California. Oregon vineyards are dotted in pockets here and there to take advantage of the best conditions.

Willamette Valley: Although the relatively warm Umpqua Valley south of Portland was the site of the very first winery of the resurgence, early growers concentrated their efforts on the cooler Willamette Valley, to the southwest. The Pinot Noirs of the Willamette Valley have consistently shown well in comparative tastings with the Pinot Noirs of Burgundy; so much so that there is now considerable French investment in the region. Pinot Gris is another successful variety, producing fresh, crisp wines that are excellent with seafood. Chardonnay was disappointing for a time, with climate-related leaness and acidity, but has dramatically improved with the introduction of Dijon clones. Plantings of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Blanc produce fine examples of these less commercially popular, but delicious varieties.

Rogue River Valley: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have found a good home in the much warmer Rogue Valley. Yields will always be small, so consumers who are interested in exploring these wines should be prepared for high quality/limited availability.

 

TENNESSEE

 

Winemaking efforts have reappeared in Tennessee since 1973, when several individual growers formed together to create the Tennessee Viticultural and Oenological Society. In 1982, newly-licensed commercial wineries banded together to create the Tennessee Farm Winegrowers Association, which now has around two dozen small wineries in operation.

Most Tennessee wines are made in semi-sweet or dessert styles, but there are also a few dry dinner wines. A variety of grapes is used, including European varietals Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but the majority are hybrids such as Vidal, Seyval Blanc and Chambourcin and native varietals such as Muscadine, Catawba and Niagara. Most wineries grow at least some of their own grapes, but the climate is not ideal for viticulture, and importing juice from other states is also common.

 

TEXAS

 

With a wine industry dating most recently from the 1970’s, Texas is the United States’ fifth largest wine state. It has around 40 producing wineries. Most are small operations, with the exception of Ste. Genevieve in West Texas, by far the largest grower and producer, and responsible for around nine-tenths of Texas wine. The state’s substantial appetite accommodates most (95%) of the more than one million gallons produced per annum, so at present not much wine leaves the state.

Well-traveled, enthusiastic ownership, university-trained winemakers and modern winemaking necessities such as controlled fermentation tanks, modern clones, and oak aging bode well for the quality and future of the industry, which has been compared to that of California in the 1970’s. But though a surprisingly high 41% of consumers say they drink wine, Texas wine law is still in transition. For the moment it retains a number of Bible belt restrictions, principally regarding conditions of sale, which hardly encourage the majority of small wineries, which together produce only ten percent of Texas wine.

As a wine producer, Texas is still establishing an identity. The industry wisely emphasizes the connection between wine and food, so dry and off-dry table wines are spotlighted in many events. Styles from sparkling wines to blush, fortified and port styles are also offered from French, Italian, German and even Spanish varietals. The most common red varietal is Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Grenache, Syrah, and even Pinot Noir. Among whites, Chardonnay predominates, followed by Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Semillon, Gewurztraminer, Muscat and others.

In national competitions, Texas wines have shown well. Texas AVA’s include Texas High Plains, Mesilla Valley, Escondido Valley, Texas Davis Mountains, and the country’s second largest AVA, Texas Hill Country, which at 15,000 square miles also encompasses Bell Mountain and Fredericksburg.

 

VIRGINIA

 

Virginia has always aspired to create fine wines. English colonists planted grapevines here as early as the 1600's, and the wine-loving Thomas Jefferson hoped to make viticulture a viable alternative to the ubiquitous tobacco. But despite early experiments with European and native varietals, satisfying results eluded vintners for a long time. Humid summers, indigenous pests, civil war and even seasonal hurricanes overwhelmed the early vineyards, which produced disappointing wines from native grapes and succumbed to fungus among imported vines.

In the 1960's and 70's, new efforts with French hybrids and European varietals allowed a mammoth leap forward in grape quality. In the last fifteen years, more vigorous vines, new consumer interest and modern spraying programs allowed the revived wine industry to flower and grow to over $40 million dollars per annum. Assisted by dedicated trade organizations and ambitious owners, Virginia wine production grew from 75,000 cases yearly in the 1980's to over 293,000 cases today, with the number of wineries increasing from a tiny six in 1979 to over seventy. The most popular wines are Chardonnay, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon, supplemented by other old world varieties; a number have been favorably reviewed in national competitions. The native Norton and hybrids Seyval and Vidal are also still produced. Six American Viticultural Areas established in the 1980's and 90's are Monticello [Thomas Jefferson's estate], North Fork of Roanoke, Northern Neck/George Washington Birthplace, Rocky Knob, Shenandoah Valley, and Virginia's Eastern Shore.

Numerous Virginia state policies support excellence in the industry. Under the Farm Winery Law of 1980, wineries that make at least 51% of their wine from their own grapes may sell at wholesale and retail levels without additional licenses. The dynamic Virginia Wine Marketing Office works with the State Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services to expedite local commerce and promote wine (www.virginiawines.org/). Wine tourism, which has become a popular weekend pastime, supports over 250 festivals throughout the state.

 

WASHINGTON STATE

 

Washington State and Oregon may be neighbors, but their wine regions look very different. Oregon's vineyards lie west of the Cascades, on the coastal side of the Pacific Ocean. The climate can be described as maritime. In Washington, most of the vineyards are located on the eastern side of the mountains, where the climate is continental (hot, dry summers and cold winters). Washington's vineyards on the arid eastern plain benefit from irrigation, and all the Bordeaux varieties, as well as Chardonnay and Syrah are grown here. Merlot, in particular, has found notable success in Washington State. Although there are a few wineries around Puget Sound and the Seattle area, most source their grapes from the major viticultural areas to the east.

Columbia Valley: This is the largest region in terms of acres, and represents over half of Washington's vinifera varieties. Most vineyards across the state source their grapes from this area.

Yakima Valley: This is the second largest region in acres, but more wineries are located here than in the Columbia Valley

Walla Walla Valley: A tiny but fast-growing region in the southeast corner of the state, many of the top-quality wineries are here.

 

OTHER US REGIONS

 

Among the other states to look for are: Alabama, Arizona, Colorado, Georgia, Idaho, Illinois, Kansas, Kentucky, Massachusetts, Mississippi, New Mexico, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Utah, West Virginia and Wisconsin.

 

 

Germany Wine Region

 
It's no wonder that wine lovers who favor the wines of Germany often speak about them in a slightly defensive tone. Riesling based wines are hard to find at retailers; the last thirty years have lowered their reputation; Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc drinkers think they are too sweet to drink with food; and the difficulties of reading most German wine labels -- and appreciating the differences they delineate -- stand in the way.

But there are still delicious German wines worth seeking out. The clean complexity of a cool Rhein or Mosel has the whisper of romance that turns a pleasant sunny afternoon or candlelit dinner into a truly memorable occasion. Their flowery Riesling bouquet and low alcohol are immediately approachable, yet the better examples are always balanced by relatively high acidity for piercing freshness and a lingering finish. Approximately eighty percent of German wines are white, but their permutations of varietal, climate, and style make up a fascinating array. In addition, a new generation of wine enthusiasts have discovered that these refreshing wines make excellent partners to the spicy, slightly sweet and occasionally fiery influences of popular ethnic cuisines. With even limited access to their great variety and charm, no wine lover should miss out on the pleasures of delicious fine wines from Germany.

A note of caution: the German wine industry's two traditional challenges are its climate and its commitment to quality. Only a stubborn, almost quixotic dedication to the art of winemaking can persist against the difficult circumstances (steep vineyards, a cold and unstable climate, limited yields) that create the great German wines. Since the second World War, mass producers have devised ways to produce facsimiles of historic German wines that appeal to the least experienced wine drinker. Without snobbishness, it is only fair to consider these sweet, low acid "Blue Nun" style wines from lesser varietals a less serious category of beverage.

 

History

 

Wine has been loved and cultivated in Germany since Roman times, when writer Ausonious of Bordeaux first described beautiful hillside vineyards beside the Mosel River. Since the rise of the early Christian church, the vine has been intimately intertwined with religious and secular history, and cultivation in the Rhein, Neckar, Mosel, Saar and Ruwer Valleys is well documented. The great administrator Charlemagne supported winemaking directly by planting projects and also indirectly, by his support and encouragement of the monastic orders, who used wine for ceremonial and daily use. These orders emphasized personal devotion and service, and their labor has been critical to the planting and maintenance of the labor intensive, low yield German vineyards throughout the centuries. A number of monastic organizations are still present and active today, notably Schloss Johannisberg and the Cistercian abbey of Kloster Eberbach, known as the traditional center of the German wine industry.

The population of (present day) Germany expanded greatly between 1000 and 1500, and the area planted in vineyards extended even into inappropriate areas as forests on mountains and plains were cleared. The Catholic orders remained a major source of wine production throughout the Middle Ages. After about 1400, they were joined by the aristocracy, and then the emerging middle classes and regional and city councils. The practice of terracing became common, and the monastic orders even managed to plant hillsides in the remote valleys, until the total vineyard area covered four times its current size. The ports of Cologne and Frankfurt competed vigorously for the wine trade, as did Hamburg, and German wines were shipped to Scandinavia, England, Holland, Switzerland, southern Germany and central Europe.

By the late Middle Ages, a cooling in the climate, foreign wars and the constraints of a larger population caused a collapse in land and wine prices, and a consequent decline in vineyards. Marginal areas were abandoned for other uses. Trade with other European countries brought competition with stronger red and fortified wines, which became fashionable, and the lower lying lands returned to growing grain for bread and for brewing the newly popular beer, which was to displace wine as a daily beverage in the north. The decline in vineyards improved standards in some areas, where better varietals, including Riesling, Muscat, Traminer, Klevner (related to Pinot Blanc and Pinot Auxerrois), and Gutedel (Chasselas), as well as red varietals replaced the previously popular but bland Elbling, a possibly native vine which had been the choice of the Romans.

A less casual attitude toward winemaking meant increased regulation of production after the late 1600's. In the Mosel Valley, the Church extended its influence in the first laws prohibiting the sugaring of wines (1750) and requiring replacement of lower quality varietals by Riesling vines (late 1700's), as did church authorities in the Rheingau, who also commanded that the red vine Orléans, (probably Pinot Noir), be added to the vineyards. In the same period the custom of distinguishing particular vineyards for high quality wines first arose, as did early laws against wine adulteration. In the 17th and 18th centuries the custom of late harvest picking became common. In the aftermath of the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars, a number of medieval customs such as land tolls and tithes were abolished, which freed smaller land holders to make vineyard improvements. Almost 45% of Church-owned lands were assumed and re-assigned by 1803, creating a new class of peasant and bourgeois vineyard owners.

The map of Germany has been re-drawn many times over the centuries, and in the early 1800's the area was still a complicated series of duchies and principalities, each with its own system of customs laws. The creation of a General Customs Union (the Zollverein) among them changed the market to a free style that opened up an intense competition and further encouraged the production of better quality wines, a trend that was to increase with the creation of the German empire.

 

In the 19th century, both aristocratic and middle class vineyard owners created growers unions to deal with vinification, storage and distribution. State authorities established schools for teaching and research, with emphasis on wine improvement. At the same time, chemist Ludwig Gall suggested addition of sugar as a simple remedy for underripe grape juice. Another alternative, Sekt, the local sparkling wine, was also developed and became popular in the second half of the century. Fungal diseases became troublesome, and phylloxera arrived to plague German vineyards in 1881.

The twentieth century was as tumultuous for the German wine industry as the nineteenth. Of course both World Wars severely affected workers, production and distribution. World War I was followed by political occupation by France in the Rhein until 1929, and an unbalanced duty scheme favored French and even Luxembourgish wines to the local product. Meanwhile, the Wine Law of 1930 strengthened standards and regulations nationwide, creating the category of "natural" (as opposed to sweetened) wines, regulating blending and abolishing the planting of American-European hybrids.

Under the Nazi era, all private and collegial wine organizations were replaced by the Union of Viticulture, which squelched initiative and improvement efforts. After the end of the second World War, virtually unlimited competition by foreign wine imports brought heavy pressure on producers. In self-defense, the cooperative organizations returned. Some of these included the lowest quality vineyards, but the top quality growers also banded together, and eventually the recovery effort produced a second huge vineyard expansion and greatly augmented yields.

Improved pest control, clone selection and frost protection allowed a typical yield of 1.1 ton/acre in 1900 to expand to as much as 5.7 tons/acre in 1980, and exports boomed. In the 1950's, thousands of smaller historic designations were abolished under the vineyard reorganization and engineering plan known as the Flurbereinigung, and in 1971, German wine law was again reformed to bring it into compliance with European Union regulations (see Classification section for the current system). It was during this time that such blended bulk wine products as Liebfraumilch first became standardized and broadcast worldwide.

At the beginning of the twenty-first century, the industry maintains a difficult balance, with mass producers still shipping millions of gallons of low-priced wines abroad. At the same time, their high volume efforts are balanced by a zealous and dedicated core of fine vintners attempting to expand the reputation of German wines with painstakingly handcrafted products. Perhaps the best comment on the current situation is that most Germans emphatically reject the mass market wines and seek out the classic Rieslings as well as foreign-influenced dry (trocken) styles of wine for their own consumption.

 

 Climate/Cultivation

 

Germany's finest vineyards are located on steep southern-oriented slopes overlooking the river valleys, particularly those of the Rhein, Neckar, Main, Nahe, Ahr and Mosel Rivers, where the presence of water and warm pockets created by meandering streams moderate the possibility of frost. Where practical, flatlands and gentle slopes are also planted in vineyard, though accommodation must be made regarding varietals and handling.

Germany's cool climate is its most difficult challenge. The basic problem (as well as the potential for greatness) of German winemaking is that climatic variations, which can be extreme from one slope to another, are registered with great sensitivity by the grapes, making both brilliance and disaster very real possibilities in every single vintage. There are usually not quite enough hours of sunshine to insure ripeness, making winemaking a perpetual gamble.

Soils vary tremendously from decomposed slate on the mountainsides to loam in the flatlands. Exposure, frost, cold winds and high altitude all affect the viability of various sites. The average vineyard holding in Germany is small (under two acres), and many of the most famous vineyards have dozens of owners with widely differing facilities, budgets and philosophies. With the steep hillsides and short growing season, grapes tend to ripen unevenly, and the crop may be thinned early in the season to help ensure good ripening of the remaining grapes. The finer vineyards must be manually harvested, often several times, but the skilled labor for such work is quite expensive, and mechanical methods are preferred in flat and foothill vineyards.

 

Varietal Information

 

It is a blessing for consumers that German vintners usually indicate varietals on the label, because this is one of the best and easiest indications of what to expect from the wine in the bottle. If a varietal is shown, it must make up at least 85% of the contents.

 

WHITES

 

Of Germany's dozens of varietals, the great majority are white. The finest is Riesling, by far the most typical among distinguished wines. This variety is exquisitely sensitive to soil and climate characteristics, and many connoisseurs feel it makes the world's greatest white wines. All the Rhein growing areas are dominated by Riesling - elegant, long-lived, and fuller-bodied in Baden, and known for a smoky character in the Rheinhessen.

Unfortunately Riesling is not an easy varietal to grow. It has a relatively long growing season, and many German vineyards areas are subject to early and late frosts. To cope with this danger, a number of hybrids were developed, notably Müller-Thurgau, which recent genetic research has determined to be a cross between Riesling and Gutedel, (rather than Riesling and Silvaner as was formerly believed). Developed in the nineteenth century, it produces less memorable wines with some Riesling flavor qualities, but is much more prolific and dependable. In the 1990's Müller-Thurgau accounted for 45% of German vineyard plantings, mostly for the mass market export wines.

Among all German wine regions, 85% of vineyards are planted with Riesling and its hybrids. In addition to Müller-Thurgau, these hybrids also include Rieslaner, a relatively demanding grape with potential for strong Riesling character, and Scheurebe, which can be used for both dry and sweet wines. Both of these are crosses between Riesling and Silvaner. With attentive vinification, Scheurebe can make high quality wines with pleasant grapefruit and red currant aromas, especially in the Rheinpfalz.

Acreage for the historic Silvaner varietal has been dwindling in recent years. This minimally aromatic white grape makes an outstanding dry wine in Franken - soft, earthy, and full-bodied, with fresh apple and citrus flavors and a fresh finish. It is not usually vinified sweeter than Auslese, and shows some similarity to a good Chablis when grown on limestone soils. Silvaner is also a specialty of Rheinhessen, where it makes a light, soft varietal and is also blended into bulk wines.

The rich, spicy Traminer (Gewürztraminer) expresses its floweriness best in Baden and Pfalz, where a good degree of acid modifies its exuberance. German Grauburgunder (Ruländer or Pinot Gris) makes both sweet and dry wines. The dry version has a honeyed, spicy fruit, earthy aroma, and is best in the southern Rhein around Baden and Pfalz, where it is sometimes oak-aged. Sweet versions are less aromatic but still have full, rich flavors. Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) makes dry, structured wines in Germany, with melon and pear aromas. It is also sometimes given oak aging in Baden and Pfalz, where the modern dry style is very successful. Other whites include Kerner, Huxelrebe, Chardonnay, Muskateller (Muscat), Elbling, Ehrenfelser, Faberrebe, Gutedel, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, and Ortega.

 

REDS:

 

Germany has been a white wine country for hundreds of years, and does not grow many red grapes. Traditionally these few reds were treated almost like the white varietals, and the wines tended to be slightly sweet and very light in color, but recently the German public has begun to demand dry red dinner wines more in the French style. The most successful are made from Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), particularly those from Rheingau, Pfalz, and Baden. Some versions are still sweet and jammy, but the better ones are made from Spätlese or Auslese in a Burgundian style with oak aging and higher extraction and tannin levels. These wines are very fashionable and can be high-priced; some are really fine, but many vintners are still working out the style. Other red grapes include Portugieser, Trollinger, Dornfelder, Schwarzriesling (Müllerrebe/Meunier), and Lemberger (Blaufränkischer).

 

 Classifications

 

In the struggle to produce healthy grapes in a marginal growing environment, German wine regulations have become among the world's most rigorous, and German wine labels the most specific and informative. The Wine Law of 1971 brought German regulations into line with other European countries, and attempted to clarify a complicated history by abolishing many historic designations, with mixed results. Today German vineyards are classified into various categories, the largest of which are the wine growing regions (Anbaugebiete) (see Areas): Ahr, Mittelrhein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Rheingau, Nahe, Rheinhessen, Franken, Hessische Bergstrasse, Rheinpfalz, Wurttemberg, Baden, Sachsberg, and Saale-Unstrut.

On the lower end of the quality scale, each wine region is divided into broad regional groupings called Bereich, and within the Bereich, into Grosslagen, smaller village/regional groups that theoretically possess common attributes. In the smallest, highest potential category are Einzellagen, or single vineyards, designated on the wine label by village and vineyard, for example, Erdener Prälat, which comes from the village of Erden and the Prälat vineyard.

Unfortunately it can be easy to confuse the label of an Einzellage with an inferior Grosslage because the Grosslage nomenclature often takes the name of a famous village in the same area. Regulators have realized this system is too variable, and the Ursprunglage designation (already seen on some labels) will eventually replace the old Grosslage category. Like Grosslagen, Ursprunglagen are wines made from collective regional vineyards, but they will be required to exhibit a unifying style and characteristics, and thus give consumers a more meaningful way to identify wines.

Unlike the great French estates, most German vineyards are not officially classified for their historical quality (though there is growing momentum to do so). Instead, on the principal that a naturally sweet grape indicates ripeness (and thus potential for high quality wines), the wines themselves are examined at each vintage by government-supervised laboratories and ranked according to their must weights. In theory, wines are required to be faithful to their heritage and traceable from vine to consumer, though in reality many wines are judged leniently. Beyond the government specifications, the concerned consumer needs to learn the better producers and vineyards. The wines are categorized into the following categories:

Landwein (Lond – vine) - basic wine product, subject to few regulations. Regional wine equivalent of the French Vin De Pays.

Tafelwein (Tof – fel-vine) - standard quality (the least ripe); may originate from any country, usually blended. (Deutscher Tafelwein must originate in Germany) Table wine

Qualitätswein (Kval-ee-tates vine) - equivalent to France's Appellation Contrôlée for EU standards. These wines make up 95% percent of recent harvests, so the designation is not so exclusive as it appears. They are analyzed by government-sanctioned laboratories for technical flaws and regional accuracy, and given control (AP) numbers that appear on the label; these indicate the year the wine was examined and the number of wines accepted in that year by this producer. These are their sub-categories:

QBA (Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete) -- "Quality wine from a specific region." Traditionally these have been less distinguished wines, but in the current trend toward dryer table wines, some winemakers may chose this category for the freedom of experimentation it allows them (with oak aging for example). Sugar (chaptalization) may be added to must in this category.

QMP (Qualitätswein mit Prädikat) These are slightly more distinguished "certified" wines. On this scale, the wine must is increasingly sweet, but the finished wines may be much less so. Particularly within the Spätlese (late harvest) and Auslese (specially chosen) categories, a high level of acid - typical in German wines - may balance a certain level of residual sugar, resulting in a balanced dry or semi-dry effect. No additional sugar may be added to this category. The QMP or "Predicate" (Prädikat) wines are sub-divided into the following categories:

Kabinett - ripe grapes Spätlese - late harvest grapes Auslese - "chosen" bunches of late harvest grapes

Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese can be drunk as aperitif or afternoon wines but are usually best drunk with meals. The following sweeter predicate categories are drunk alone, or with (sometimes as) dessert:

Beerenauslese - "chosen berries" of late harvest grapes. Often includes grapes affected by botrytis, the "noble rot" which shrinks berries, concentrates flavors and gives the characteristic "golden" flavor.

Trockenbeerenauslese - always made from dry, botrytized grapes and intensely sweet, usually very long-lived.

Eiswein - made from unbotrytized grapes left on the vines so late in the season that they freeze. They are picked only at temperatures of 18 degrees F. (-8C.) or lower, when the water in the grapes is frozen solid. The ice is left behind when they are pressed, making for incredibly concentrated, long-lived sweet wines.

Within an individual estate, the Prädikat system is a good quality indicator, and higher must weights (measured in degrees Oechsle) usually indicate higher potential for the traditional style Riesling wines. Technically speaking, any vineyard is free to produce wines of any quality, but better producers have higher standards all around, and good German winemakers often present their wines in a lower category to make a better impression. The same wine may become a really fine Spätlese or just an adequate Auslese, for example. So it is in the consumer's interest to become acquainted with the names of good vintages and producers as well as their vineyards, none of which the system rates. Both fine and indifferent producers produce many different lots of wine.

Since 1994, yields from German vineyards have been limited except at the most basic Tafel and Landwein levels. For QBA wines and above, the maximum permitted yield is an average of harvests in the same vineyard area for the last ten years. The label designation Gutsabfüllung, "estate bottled," indicates wine cultivated, harvested, vinified and bottled by the producer whose name appears on the label. In addition, its winemaker must have specialized training in oenology, and the vineyard supplying the grapes must have been cultivated for at least three years by the producer. Erzeugerabfüllung is a somewhat less stringent designation meaning "producer bottled." The category may not be used by the mass market bottlers unless they own the vineyards which produced the wine, but it can include blended wines from members of local cooperatives. Since these may not all be of the same standard, Erzeugerabfüllung wines are more variable in quality than those labelled Gutsabfüllung.

 

SPECIAL CATEGORIES

 

Starting in September, 2000, two new designations for dry wines, Classic and Selection, have been introduced to dispel consumer confusion with dry wines produced from traditionally sweet categories (e.g., Spätlese and Auslese).

The “Classic” label certifies “harmoniously dry” table wines from a single region, made exclusively from the region’s traditional varietal. Labels are required to indicate region, vintage, producer and varietal, but no additional style description (such as trocken, halbtrocken, etc) beyond “Classic” is allowed. In addition, Classic wines must have alcohol levels of at least 12 percent by volume.

A “Selection” wine is a single vineyard wine. Also made from a traditional varietal of the region, it must be dry unless made from Riesling, which is subjected to a specific formula allowing acidity u